Keystone Curves: Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
At Hyner View State Park, you can admire the view of the West Branch Susquehanna River. (Photos by the author)

When my two riding partners, Yamaha Joe and Pathfinder Rich, said we should hit the road for a few days, I suggested north-central Pennsylvania because the area offers wonderful riding and scenery well away from the hustle and bustle of big cities.

Our motorcycle adventure took us to Wellsboro in the heart of the Pennsylvania Wilds region, which encompasses over 2 million acres of state forestland and mountains, 29 state parks, and two federal parks along with historic towns, verdant farmland, and bucolic rivers and lakes. But most importantly, the PA Wilds area has hundreds of miles of beautiful roads to explore. 

Scan QR codes above or click Day 1Day 2, or Day 3 to view routes on REVER

For us, the ride is as important as the destination, and Pennsylvania offers much to experience. We met in Lackawaxen, home of Roebling’s Delaware Aqueduct, built in the 1840s to carry the Delaware and Hudson canal above the Delaware River. The famed 20th century adventure writer (and dentist!) Zane Grey’s former home is nearby and preserved as a museum.

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
Left to right: Ken, Rich, and Joe.

The Roebling aqueduct is now a bridge that carries vehicles and pedestrians across the river, and we took it to the scenic and serpentine New York Route 97, which parallels the Delaware River for over 70 miles. At Cochecton, we crossed back into Pennsylvania, rolling west on State Route 371 under a blue sky dotted with puffy clouds. We plunged deep into northeastern Pennsylvania’s Endless Mountains region, part of the Allegheny Plateau of the Appalachians.

At Herrick Center, we turned north on State Route 171 and stopped to eat lunch in Union Dale at Arlo’s Country Store & Tavern, named in honor of folk singer Arlo Guthrie of “Alice’s Restaurant” fame and son of America’s Dust Bowl troubadour Woody Guthrie. Arlo’s has whatever you need: gas, groceries, a full tavern menu, lodging, and live music on Fridays and Saturdays. It’s a comfortable spot that tempted us to stay, but we saddled up and continued west on Fiddle Lake Road. 

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
A farm along State Route 371 in the Endless Mountains region.

We followed State Routes 92 and 492, hopped on U.S. Route 11 briefly near New Milford, and then sailed southwest on State Route 706 like we were on a green sea of rolling hills. The lush farmland and forest were invigorating, the air clean and pure.

At Camptown, we picked up State Route 409 for a few miles and then turned north on U.S. Route 6 – known locally as PA Route 6 – near the Susquehanna River. We stopped at the Marie Antoinette Overlook, which has impressive views of the river, mountains, and the French Azilum, a planned settlement built in 1793 for refugees fleeing the French Revolution. Legend has it that Marie Antoinette planned to settle here, but she lost her head before the moving van arrived.

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
View from Marie Antoinette Overlook.

We continued west on PA Route 6, crossing the Susquehanna at Towanda, enjoying a leisurely cruise on the scenic two-lane road through the countryside, and passing through small towns such as Burlington, Troy, Sylvania, and Mansfield before arriving in Wellsboro.

Founded in 1806, Wellsboro has a 19th century feel. Home to less than 3,500 residents, the small town has a walkable main street with gas-lit streetlamps, charming architecture, and independently owned family stores, motels, and restaurants. In 2024, it was voted as the second most enchanting small town in the Northeast by readers of USA Today’s 10Best.

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
Learning some French history at the Marie Antoinette Overlook.

Rolling into town, we dropped our kickstands at the clean, comfortable, motorcycle-friendly Sherwood Motel (see Lodging Spotlight below). While I relaxed in the pool, my buddies visited a local pub for a libation or two. Later, we dined at The Steak House, an old-school restaurant and lounge with excellent food and friendly staff that has been serving customers since 1957. When we told them we were from New Jersey, they had the chef come out to meet us. He’s a Jersey guy too and grew up in the same town as Rich. Small world!

See all of Rider’s Pennsylvania motorcycle rides here.

The next morning, rested and refreshed, we fired up our bikes and hit the road early. Our short, serpentine cruise on State Route 660 to Leonard Harrison State Park passed through farmland and went by a bright red church. The park sits on the east rim of Pine Creek Gorge, also known as the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon, which is 47 miles long, up to 1,450 feet deep, and nearly a mile across. In addition to the epic views, the park offers hiking, fishing, and camping.

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
Built in 1897, this red church is located on State Route 660 near Pine Creek Gorge.

After viewing the canyon, we backtracked a bit and turned west on Pinecreek Road (SR-660), enjoying the mellow rumble of our machines and soaking up the warm rays of the morning sun and the great scenery. We continued west on U.S. 6, following Pine Creek as we rode deeper into the PA Wilds.

At Gaines, we headed north on Long Run Road (State Route 349); at Westfield, we turned west again on State Route 49. Pennsylvania’s big cities – Philadelphia in the east, Pittsburgh in the west – get all the attention, but the vast central part of the state is filled with the Appalachian Mountains and interspersed with rolling farmland and small villages. The area is pristine, uncrowded, and unhurried. 

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
Enjoying an empty road and lush foliage on State Route 660 on our way to Leonard Harrison State Park, where we stopped to admire Pine Creek Gorge.

At Coudersport, we rode southeast a few miles on U.S. 6 as we continued our loop exploring the PA Wilds west of Wellsboro. At Sweden Valley, we veered south on State Route 44. We stopped at Longtoe Vista for a nice view and then at Patterson State Park for a brief respite in a shaded picnic shelter. The park is the trailhead for the 85-mile Susquehannock Trail that’s popular with backpackers.

Continuing our journey, we passed through Cherry Spring State Park, which was Pennsylvania’s first Dark Sky Park and offers some of the best stargazing in the eastern U.S. The forest engulfed us as we rode south on SR-44, which parallels Little Kettle Creek. At Kettle Creek Lodge & Cabins, we maintained our southern course on State Route 144. We were deep in Susquehannock State Forest, and there were two more wonderful state parks on our list. 

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
Known locally as the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon, Pine Creek Gorge is one of the most impressive land features in the PA Wilds region. A 60-mile rails-to-trails bike path parallels the creek.

Next was Ole Bull State Park, named in honor of Ole Borneman Bull, a famous Norwegian violinist who purchased 120,000 acres of land in 1852 and founded a colony named New Norway. The colony ultimately failed, largely due to the difficulties of clearing the area’s dense forest, and the Norwegians migrated west into Minnesota and the Dakotas. There is a statue of Ole Bull in the park, which offers camping, picnicking, fishing, swimming, and hiking. If you’re a motorcycle camper, this would be a top choice to stay.

Where SR-144 turns east at Tamarack Road, we continued south on Kettle Creek Road to Kettle Creek State Park, which is nestled deep within a mountainous valley and has a 167-acre lake. The park is peaceful and restorative, and it offers a full range of recreational opportunities. 

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
The reservoir at Kettle Creek State Park is a great place to relax, have a picnic, or do a little fishing.

Kettle Creek Road ends at Renovo Road (State Route 120), where we turned east and rode with the West Branch of the Susquehanna River on our right side as we passed through towns like Shintown, Renovo, Farwell, North Bend, and Hyner. 

A left turn on Hyner Run Road took us to one of the “25 must-see Pennsylvania state parks.” Surrounded by the 305,450-acre Sproul State Forest, Hyner View State Park has one of grandest views in the region. A challenging 5-mile ride to the summit overlook rewarded us with a sweeping panorama of mountains, valleys, and the river. The overlook’s rock wall was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. Gracing the summit is a bronze statue honoring the young men of the CCC and a memorial to the region’s fire wardens.

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
Cruising along State Route 414, one of the best motorcycling roads in Pennsylvania.

After enjoying the summit, we returned to Hyner Run/Mountain Road, rode east to SR-44, and continued going east. At State Route 414 we turned north and rode along the winding course of Pine Creek. At Morris, we picked up State Route 287 and returned to Wellsboro, where we had a great dinner at The Roost, a pub with a full bar, a wide range of beers, and an eclectic menu.

The morning of our third day, we checked out of the Sherwood and headed south on SR-287 to SR-414, where we headed east towards home. SR-414 is one of Pennsylvania’s great motorcycling roads, traveling though lush farmland, past country churches, and through small towns. U.S. Route 220 took us back to Towanda, and U.S. 6. took us most of the way home.

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
This bronze statue honoring members of the Civilian Conservation Corps is at Hyner View State Park.

Three friends, three days, and hundreds of miles of great riding through a beautiful part of the country that has a rich history yet still feels undiscovered. It was the perfect getaway. There’s more to explore and roads we’re eager to ride again, so we’ll be back soon to the PA Wilds.

See all of Rider’s touring stories here


LODGING SPOTLIGHT: Sherwood Motel

Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride
Keystone Curves Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride

The Sherwood Motel and its sibling Canyon Motel offer clean, comfortable, affordable, and motorcycle-friendly lodging in Wellsboro. The Sherwood has 42 rooms (nonsmoking only, no pets) and an outdoor pool. The Canyon has 44 rooms (smoking and nonsmoking options, no pets) and a indoor heated pool. Amenities include free internet, microwaves, mini refrigerators, cable TV, and complimentary coffee. Both motels are within walking distance of restaurants and shopping, and their management goes above and beyond to accommodate single or group riders. For rates, reservations, and more, visit the Sherwood Motel website or Canyon Motel website.


Pennsylvania Wilds Motorcycle Ride


Kenneth Dahse Contributor Headshot

Kenneth W. Dahse is a writer and photographer from northern New Jersey and a regular contributor to Rider. Ken has been riding since he was a teenager, and his favorite rides are relaxed multiday excursions.

2 COMMENTS

  1. Being somewhat familiar with the area your article covers I looked in vain for where your posted route for day 1 crossed into NY and you rode Route 97 returning to PA at Cochecton :”we took it to the scenic and serpentine New York Route 97, which parallels the Delaware River for over 70 miles. At Cochecton, we crossed back into Pennsylvania, rolling west on State Route 371″. Try as I might these is no time your route ever enters NY State. Please be accurate in your descriptions. Others may embark on travels based on them only to find out the described route was imaginary!

    • Tom, if you click on the REVER link for Day 1, this route crosses into New York at Lackawaxen at the very beginning, takes Route 97 north, then crosses back into Pennsylvania at Cochecton. Since the route stays so close to the state line on the river, you might have to zoom in to see the crossings.

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