While many Southern towns have struggled with the disappearance of anchor industries, some have bounced back on a rising tide of renewal and resurgence. One such town is Tazewell (pronounced TAZZ-well), located in the heart of southwestern Virginia’s slice of the Appalachian Mountains and my destination for this Virginia motorcycle ride.
Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER
Founded in 1799, Tazewell was a thriving coal-mining town for nearly a century. When the coal industry declined, so did the town’s fortunes. But the downturn was short-lived. A shared love of twisty roads has been breathing new life into Tazewell, which has become a destination for motorcycle and car enthusiasts alike.
For those who love curves, the primary draw is Back of the Dragon, the 32-mile section of State Route 16 that claims 438 curves and 3,500 feet of elevation change as it winds south from Tazewell to Marion. I took a long solo ride from my home in Kentucky to ride the Back of the Dragon and to enjoy the third annual Old Town Revival, a weekend-long rally held in June.
After a loosely curvy ride via state highways on my Kawasaki Versys-X 300, I pulled up to my home away from home, the Farmhouse Suite (see sidebar below). This deluxe hotel suite is in the bottom level of the Haus of Taylor art gallery, which displays fine art and curated goods.
Famished after my long motorcycle ride, I took advantage of the suite’s central location and walked downtown. Several restaurants are nearby, including Bee Noodle’d, with bright, bee-themed decor and a friendly staff.
The restaurant is known for their local ingredients, particularly honey, so I ordered one of their specialties, the Bee Mac: homemade white-cheddar mac ’n cheese topped with crispy honey-teriyaki chicken. A perfect blend of sweet, creamy, and tangy, it was comfort food at its finest, washed down with a refreshing Bailee’s Famous Lemon Bee honey-infused lavender lemonade.
After eating, I continued strolling down Main Street through Tazewell’s charming downtown to the Back of the Dragon Brewery. Festivities for the Old Town Revival rally, a motorcycle and car enthusiast gathering, were already underway. Cruise-ins, stunt shows, live music, derby races, Harley-Davidson giveaways, dyno testing, tattoo artists, vendors, and much more were available for anyone to enjoy.
The purpose of the OTR is to draw folks to Tazewell by giving them a venue to engage with and enjoy their favorite pastimes with fellow enthusiasts. The event’s slogan is “Ride ’Em or Drive ’Em,” and all brands and types of vehicles are welcome. Motorcycles lined the streets as live music played from a stage. Vendor booths dotted the strip leading up to the BOTD Brewery, where a huge dragon sculpture is ready for photos to prove you rode (or drove) the famous route.
Inside the brewery is a wide array of merchandise and memorabilia. I hadn’t ridden the Back of the Dragon yet, so I skipped the merch until I earned my bona fides. After enjoying the sights and sounds of the rally, I walked back to the Farmhouse Suite and lounged amongst the stylish and tasteful decor, enjoyed a decadent soak in the rainfall shower, and fell asleep in the king-size bed. This suite was going to spoil me!
Early the next morning, I rode my Versys to the start of the BOTD route. The REVER app said it should take 56 minutes to complete the 32-mile section of SR-16, which is an average of 34 mph even though the posted speed limit is 55 mph. That was my first clue I was in for a challenge.
The BOTD route works its way up and over three mountain ranges, and it is full of exhilarating, winding curves of all shapes, sizes, and types. Of the 438 curves, some have names like Kudzu Curve, Cliff Hanger, Zero Gravity Curve, First (and Second) Dragon Slalom, Lazy Dragon, and a series of them named after a dragon’s head, elbow, wing, and knee.
Some of the large, sweeping curves can be ridden at 55 mph, but be prepared to get on the brakes as many others are blind or tighten up and are signposted at 15 or 25 mph. After enjoying the back-and-forth slaloms, tight switchbacks, and fast sweepers, I arrived in Marion, where SR-16 ends at U.S. Route 11.
Taking the BOTD back north provides an entirely new ride. I found myself weaving through turns on one mountain, then riding straight through rolling farmland with beautiful views as I prepared for my ascent onto the next mountain.
The weather on my trip was perfect, and with SR-16 being nearly flawless in terms of pavement quality, I could focus on the turns without worrying about bumps and potholes.
After my first two passes on the BOTD route, I returned to BOTD Brewery for lunch. The OTR rally was in full swing. Motorcycles lined Main Street far off into the distance, and people were meandering around, checking out custom motorcycles and chatting with other bikers. Battling the dragon worked up an appetite, so I got into line to get a slice of wood-fired pizza. Others poured ice-cold beers from the self-service taps.
Walking around the brewery grounds, I checked out the Harley-Davidson motorcycles that were being offered for giveaways and competitions. Vendors sold T-shirts and leather items, and one would even repair your leather vest or jacket with an onsite sewing shop. Samples of energy drinks were handed out, and live music set a vibrant tone for the event.
Finishing my pizza, I went inside the brewery to purchase my hard-earned BOTD merch. The brewery started to clear out as rally participants went on to the fairgrounds to watch the stunt shows and derby car events. I opted to ride the BOTD route a few more times instead.
For my next few BOTD passes, I decided to stop at all the overlooks. The first was Kudzu Curve, a long sweeper surrounded by the climbing kudzu vine found throughout the South. A bit farther sits the Million Dollar View overlook, with a wide-open vista across the mountains and surrounding countryside.
My next stop was Hungry Mother State Park, where I checked out the beautiful lake scenery and wooden cabins. A highlight of this state park is the lake’s beach, so I walked over to the sandy promenade and admired the blue sky reflected on the placid surface. Without a swimsuit – and guessing that Kevlar-lined motorcycle gear wouldn’t be the best beach attire – I headed back, glancing back green-eyed at the cool water.
After another night of sleeping in luxury, I woke up with a long ride in my future. Bounding through the peaceful Virginia countryside lined with residences, antique barns, and farming equipment, I passed through Saltville before crossing over BOTD again. My route would follow a road that appeared on the map to be extremely twisty before ending in Burke’s Garden, a valley known for its views and Amish heritage.
My route to Burke’s Garden via State Route 623 included a single-lane gravel road. While I had ridden on gravel before, I’m not an experienced off-road rider. I pressed on, and it wasn’t until I got to that first 180-degree uphill hairpin that I realized this was the curvy section of road that I had seen on the map.
As I rode through hairpin after hairpin on gravel, dirt, and rock, I focused on my training. I breathed and loosened my death-grip on the handlebar. I turned my head to look through the sharp turns and positioned my body to ensure I didn’t turn wide and drop off the steep edge. When one hairpin turned downhill, causing me to gain too much speed for comfort, I remembered to gently press the back brake instead of the common tendency to forcibly grab the front. Then – suddenly – I was on pavement again! I let out an exclamation of joy.
See all of Rider’s South U.S. touring stories here.
A few miles later, I was in the “bowl” of Burke’s Garden, sitting on the stoop of the Amish General Store enjoying the mountains surrounding me. Resting and snacking, I was grateful for the gravel road experience and the beautiful views, even if it was nerve-wracking. I was also grateful that I would be heading back to Tazewell a different way!
Riding a fun, paved twisty out of Burke’s Garden, I arrived at BOTD Brewery and looked forward to the prospect of more pizza. This time, I ordered the specialty Kudzu Pie, a white pizza with caramelized onion, arugula, and a phenomenal balsamic drizzle. While enjoying the crust, with that chewy bite and rustic, smoky flavor of true wood-fired pizza, I learned the history from the director of BOTD Brewery, Beth Takach, and her father, the man behind it all, Larry Davidson.
Larry, a long-time motorcyclist and even longer resident of Tazewell, had always known how special SR-16 was. He believed it could be a destination for motorcycle lovers around the world. Armed with a dozen T-shirts, he approached other motorcyclists over a decade ago, gauging their interest in the area’s riding. When he sold out that day, he knew that others loved this special road just as much as he did and that this could be a true asset to the small town.
Larry helped get SR-16 designated as the official Back of the Dragon motorcycle route in 2010. He opened the BOTD Brewery, which greets riders at the end of their ride with hot pizza, a cold beverage, and memorable merchandise in a lively, motorcycle-friendly environment. Thousands of riders come from far and wide to Tazewell every year to ride the legendary Back of the Dragon. I am proud to say that I am one of them.
See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.
SIDEBAR: Farmhouse Suite
Located at 113 Fincastle Turnpike in the Historic District of Tazewell, the Farmhouse Suite is a distinctive place to stay. The decor blends antique style with modern elements and luxury conveniences. Eco-conscious yet elegant, the suite offers a waterfall shower, sumptuous robes and towels, and delicious snacks and drinks in the pantry and mini fridge. This suite is a comfortable place to sleep and a relaxing place to recharge between rides. Find more info on Vrbo.
Tazewell, Virginia Motorcycle Ride Resources
Carly Becker lives to ride. If she’s not on her bike she can be found at her desk, writing about her motorcycle tours and moto camping trips. She lives in northern Kentucky with her husband, her dog, and her Kawasaki Versys-X 300.
