As my husband, Jake, and I packed our saddlebags for a three-day East Tennessee motorcycle ride in the 9 Lakes Region, I realized it would be our first multiday motorcycle journey together. A Saturday cruise on local roads is common for us, but this was new territory.
Day 1: To the Gap
As we exited at Harriman, the tree tunnel of I-40 was shed for the characterful scene of an East Tennessee small town. Mom-and-pop shops and restaurants lined the road, and buildings were brightly painted with murals displaying the town’s history and culture.
Harriman’s streets were soon replaced with riverside riding along the Emory and Clinch rivers. We followed the rivers toward Norris Lake, where we stopped at Hickory Star Marina in search of some grub.
We’d picked an oppressively hot weekend for our trip. Luckily, ice-cold sweet tea flows here like the area’s many rivers, and we had a glass in our hands on the marina’s dockside patio in no time, followed by sandwiches. Norris Lake gleams with a vibrant turquoise resulting from the lake’s depth and purity.
Scan QR codes above or click Day 1, Day 2, or Day 3 to view routes on REVER
We continued north, where the road often rose onto a ridge to reveal views of tree-covered mountainsides before dipping down into refreshing shade alongside cool creeks.
We reached Cumberland Gap with time to explore the town before supper. Our lodging for the night was the Olde Mill Inn Bed and Breakfast, built in the late 1800s along a burbling stream that runs through the town.
Cumberland Gap is the kind of place an artist would use as a retreat to find inspiration and tranquility. We strolled the town, which is surrounded on all sides by Cumberland Gap National Historic Park, and hiked up to Tri-State Peak, where Tennessee, Virginia, and Kentucky meet. Although the hike was short, it was steep enough to renew our appreciation for our favorite mode of transportation, and we gained respect for the people who used this path to traverse the Appalachians long before the invention of motorized travel.
We slept well that night and woke up to a delicious and filling breakfast served at the long dining table on the inn’s main floor. After pleasant chats with other visitors over coffee, we were on the road again, this time heading south.
Day 2: Carving a Trail
The road toward Tazewell offered gorgeous morning views across the mountains, which its gentle curves and good visibility allow riders to take full advantage of.
We continued through Bean Station and White Pine before taking an exploratory journey in search of the Rankin coaling tower. A remnant of the time when trains were powered by steam, this tower is one of few remaining.
We climbed the steep one-lane Rankin Hill Road and then dropped down toward Douglas Lake. We followed the lake north until the road turned to rough gravel, on which I didn’t feel confident testing my nonexistent off-road skills on the Honda Rebel 1100T DCT cruiser. Jake was happy to continue on his Can-Am Ryker Rally for a mile or so while I guzzled water beside the railroad tracks. I was content to take a break for the first five minutes. After 10, I started missing the breeze through my mesh jacket. After 15, I became worried.
Apparently knowing the exact amount of time I’m willing to wait before embarking on a search-and-rescue attempt, Jake finally rode back into view. He’d found some locals fishing by the lake who told him where to see the tower in the distance, but he would’ve had to wade through shallow water to get near it.
Back on track, we continued to Norris Dam State Park, where we parked in front of Clinch River Brewery beside other motorcycles to have lunch. Just down the road from the brewery and across the dam, an overlook provided a scenic spot to digest our food.
On Old Tennessee 63 heading north, we enjoyed a pleasant and shaded ride alongside Cove Creek and railroad tracks before heading west through Huntsville and on to our destination for the evening, Rugby.
As the speed limit decreased on the way into Rugby, we saw a sign warning us to use caution and slow down for Irish road bowling. I wondered if Jake was as perplexed as I was. My guess was some sort of construction project.
Among the town’s historic Victorian buildings, residents of all ages crowded the main street, some with large balls in hand, some with tall poles, and many waving at us as we rode by. As we approached the action to investigate, a man named Tony welcomed us.
Tony explained that Irish road bowling is a game in which teams attempt to roll heavy cannon balls from one point in the road to another point farther away, then back to the original point. The team to make it back to the original point in the least number of rolls wins the game. As he talked, the townsfolk cheered and rooted for their teams. Tony displayed what we came to recognize as a common trait among the people here: a welcoming attitude that makes strangers feel like friends and family.
See all of Rider’s Tennessee touring stories here
When the game was over, we continued about a mile to Grey Gables Bed & Breakfast, where owner Linda Brooks Jones greeted us. Supper was ready, so we quickly washed the road off and headed down to the dining room.
Over a delicious meal of zucchini soup, homemade bread, salad, boneless pork chops with carrots and broccoli, and bananas foster, all washed down with iced almond tea, we enjoyed conversation with the other guests gathered around the table. While we had dessert, Linda joined us and told us more about the town, which was founded as a place for the second sons of the English gentry – those who would not inherit the bulk of their family’s fortune – to live in tranquility. I can see why this place was selected for a life of peace and leisure.
Day 3: Outposts and Outlaws
The next day would be the most historic of our trip, including places of somber importance as well as locations of vibrant culture. Our first stop was just down the road at the R.M. Brooks store.
After a delicious breakfast, we followed Linda to her family’s store. Now run by Linda’s daughter, R.M. Brooks was built in 1930 and is a prominent meeting spot for locals and visitors alike. Linda was happy to play tour guide, pointing out the attached house where her grandparents had lived and telling us more of the store’s rich history.
After promising Linda that we’d be back in time for supper, we continued south through Wartburg and on to Harriman. We learned that Harriman, known as “The Town that Temperance Built,” was founded in 1891 as an ideal industrial city built on foundational values of sobriety, exalted character, and learning. Although its founding core tenants sound somewhat restrictive, the town is lively and vibrant.
Looking for something cool to drink, we stopped in at The Sweet Spot and were greeted by a man named Blake, who pointed out historical photos on his shop’s walls as he answered our questions about the town. We bought a couple RC Colas and a small loaf of banana nut bread to enjoy as we strolled by the historic places Blake had recommended, like the grand Temperance Building and the historic Cornstalk Heights district.
When we finished our snack and walk, we saddled up again. Remembering our promise to Linda, we didn’t spend too long at the next three historic stops on our trip, which included the 18th-century Fort Southwest Point, the Wheat Community African Burial Ground, and the town of Oak Ridge, famous for its role in the Manhattan Project.
About 27 miles north of Oak Ridge, we found ourselves at Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, a historic prison nestled among mountains covered in thick growth, making escape nearly impossible, which James Earl Ray, who assassinated Martin Luther King Jr., discovered in 1977.
Next up was the best road of the trip, State Route 116, one part of the popular Devil’s Triangle loop. We rode the curviest section, which rivals the Tail of the Dragon with challenging corners and exciting twists. It was also less populated than the Dragon tends to be, allowing us to enjoy it at our own pace.
See all of Rider’s South touring stories.
When the road came to an end at an intersection by a creek, our preplanned route told us to go left, which would take us along a gravel road. From what I could see, the road looked smooth enough, so we continued on, hoping it would turn back to pavement soon.
It did turn to pavement…in about 10 miles. By the end, we were covered in a layer of white dust and had lost time. After brushing off the dust as best as we could, we continued to our last historic stop of the day, the Scott County Jail in Huntsville, where we arrived a few minutes after closing.
We were disappointed to miss this tour, since we’d heard the owners of the jail are two women motorcyclists, and we’d hoped to chat with them. If a plan to return to the area had been only a vague thought at the start of the trip, it was now a certainty.
We kept our promise to Linda and made it back to Grey Gables in time for another delicious meal and friendly conversation around the dining table. At the end of the evening, Linda gave us a hug and a copy of her cookbook, The Table at Grey Gables. As a thunderstorm washed the dust off our bikes, we settled in for a good rest.
A Journey Home
The next morning, we had another fantastic breakfast before packing our saddlebags for a final time. We said our goodbyes and rolled out. As the mountains depressed into gentle rolling hills, I was surprised to find that I wasn’t disappointed to be headed home. Instead, I was excited to recall the many conversations and memories Jake and I would share about our first weekend-long motorcycle trip together, and I was happy that I’d be able to write this story to look back on many years from now.
See all of Rider’s touring stories here
9 Lakes of East Tennessee Motorcycle Ride Resources
- 9 Lakes of East Tennessee
- Cumberland Gap National Historic Park
- Norris Dam State Park
- Devil’s Triangle
- Harriman
- Historic Rugby
- Olde Mill Inn Bed and Breakfast
- Grey Gables Bed & Breakfast
- Hickory Star Resort and Marina
- Clinch River Brewing
- Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary
- Historic Scott County Jail
